Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
